Ever wondered why some seams hold strong for years while others fray prematurely? Or why that beautiful embroidery just doesn’t pop the way you envisioned? The secret, more often than not, lies in choosing the right thread for your fabric.
As your trusted Fabric Supplier in the Philippines, poor-quality threads, with their excessive lint and frustrating breakage, can quickly turn a passionate endeavor into a chore. High-quality threads, on the other hand, offer a smooth, consistent experience, letting your creativity flow uninterrupted. Let’s unravel the mysteries of thread, exploring its diverse constructions, specialized treatments, and ultimately, which thread will bring out the best in your fabric.
The Foundation: Understanding Thread Construction
The way a thread is constructed significantly influences its performance. Here’s a closer look at the common methods:
- Spun Thread: These single yarns are then twisted together to form a robust thread. Cotton and polyester spun threads are common examples, offering a classic feel and reliable performance. It offers a soft, matte finish, making it a versatile choice for many general sewing applications.
- Corespun Thread: This clever construction combines the best of both worlds. Spun cotton or polyester staple fibers are carefully wrapped around strong, continuous polyester filaments. This results in a thread that boasts the natural feel of spun fibers with enhanced strength from the filament core, making it incredibly durable.
- Textured Thread: Polyester or nylon fibers are mechanically treated to create a soft, voluminous, and elastic thread, often resembling wool. This texturing process is brilliant for adding fullness, providing excellent thermal insulation, and even wicking away moisture. It’s particularly useful for comfortable seams in activewear or lingerie.
- Filament Thread: For that sleek, shiny finish, look no further than filament thread. Made from continuous strands of polyester, rayon, or nylon, these threads offer a smooth, lustrous appearance, perfect for decorative stitching where shine is desired.
- Monofilament Thread: As the name suggests, this is a single, continuous filament of nylon or, preferably, polyester. It’s often used when an “invisible” stitch is needed, such as in quilting or appliqué, due to its fine, transparent nature.
- Bonded Thread: When serious strength is required, bonded thread steps up. A special resin coating is applied to the outside of the thread, significantly increasing its tensile strength and reducing friction during sewing. You’ll typically find bonded threads in heavy-duty applications like upholstery, where durability is paramount.
The Finishing Touches: Understanding Thread Processing
Beyond construction, many threads undergo additional processing to further enhance their performance. Cotton threads, in particular, benefit from these specialized treatments:
- Mercerized: This common process involves immersing cotton fibers in a caustic solution, causing them to swell. The result? Dyes penetrate better, the thread gains a beautiful luster, and its strength is remarkably increased. Nearly all quality cotton threads you encounter for sewing are mercerized, even if it’s not explicitly stated.
- Gassed (or Silk Finish/Polished Cotton): For a smoother, brighter, and lower-lint thread, gassing is the answer. The thread is rapidly passed through a flame, burning off stray fibers and resulting in a less fuzzy finish. This makes for a cleaner stitch and less machine maintenance. If you compare our King Tut and MasterPiece cotton threads, you’ll immediately notice their exceptionally low lint, a testament to the gassing process.
- Glazed or Coated: This treatment involves coating the thread with wax, resin, or starch, and then polishing it for a lovely sheen. Glazed threads are exceptionally strong, making them ideal for hand quilting. However, a word of caution: they are not recommended for machine sewing. The coating can rub off in your machine’s tension discs and other contact points, leading to a frustrating buildup of lint and fuzz that obstructs the thread path.
The Perfect Pairing: Which Thread for Which Fabric?
Now that we’ve explored the fascinating world of thread construction and processing, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty: which thread is best for your project?
- General Purpose Thread
- What is it? This is your sewing workhorse, typically 100% polyester. It’s strong, durable, and flexible, making it the most frequently used thread in almost any sewing kit. Stock up on every color!
- When to use it: Perfect for sewing construction seams on garments or quilt tops. It’s incredibly versatile, suitable for fabrics ranging from delicate silk gauze to sturdy denim or midweight canvas. Ideal for both hand and machine sewing.
- Tips: Match your needle size and type to your fabric, usually a 70 to 100 universal or sharp needle.
- Polyester Thread (Decorative)
- What is it? While general-purpose threads are usually polyester, this variety is manufactured to have a smooth, shiny finish, specifically for decorative applications.
- When to use it: Your go-to for machine embroidery, decorative stitching, or adding embellishments, especially on children’s clothes where durability is key.
- Tips: Silky threads can unwind prematurely from their spool, so a thread net is often a helpful accessory, especially if your machine holds spools horizontally. Use a needle suitable for your fabric, typically a 70-80 embroidery or universal needle.
- Cotton Thread
- What is it? A natural fiber option. While lovely, it’s generally not as strong as polyester for load-bearing seams. Lighter weights may not withstand the stress of wear over time.
- When to use it: Excellent for loose-fitting garments or accessories that won’t experience significant stress. Also a fantastic choice for machine quilting when you desire a more rustic, matte look. If you’re planning to tie-dye a cotton fabric, using cotton thread ensures consistent dye absorption.
- Tips: Cotton thread is known for shedding lint, so be diligent about cleaning your sewing machine after a cotton project. It also tends to split more easily; if this happens, try a larger needle size.
- Quilting Thread
- What is it? A specialty 100% cotton thread, often with a glazed finish, specifically designed for hand sewing your quilt top to its batting and backing.
- When to use it: Exclusively for hand sewing quilts, hand sewing buttons, or attaching beads to garments.
- Tips: Remember, this thread is for hand sewing only! The glazed finish will rub off on your machine’s needle and tension discs, causing problems. Choose a quilting needle with an eye large enough to accommodate this slightly thicker thread.
- Silk Thread
- What is it? A luxurious natural fiber prized for its smooth texture, lustrous sheen, and vibrant color absorption.
- When to use it: While it can be used in a machine, silk thread truly shines in hand sewing and embroidery. Its strength is surprising for its fineness, making it excellent for delicate fabrics or where invisible stitches are desired.
- Tips: Silk thread is often the choice for couture sewing due to its ability to blend seamlessly with fine fabrics.
- Rayon Thread
- What is it? A highly lustrous and vibrantly colored thread, most commonly used in machine embroidery.
- When to use it: Perfect for machine embroidery, decorative stitching on pockets or hems, and quilting projects that demand a decorative shine. It’s also a more budget-friendly alternative to silk thread for a similar aesthetic. Not suitable for construction seams.
- Tips: Rayon’s silky nature can lead to premature unspooling; a thread net is highly recommended, especially for cones. Use a smaller needle appropriate for your fabric, typically a 60-80 embroidery needle.
- Linen Thread
- What is it? Made from 100% linen, this heavyweight thread is incredibly strong and resistant to friction, making it ideal for projects that will endure a lot of stress.
- When to use it: A superb choice for attaching bag straps, sewing on buttons, and crafting leather accessories like wallets or bags.
- Tips: Due to its thickness, select a larger hand sewing needle. Conditioning your linen thread by running it through beeswax and then ironing it between two sheets of waxed paper will provide extra glide for smoother hand sewing. Go slow – linen thread is dense and stiff, prone to knotting if rushed.
- Extra Strong Thread
- What is it? Essentially a heavier-weight, more robust version of general-purpose sewing thread, designed for seams under heavy stress or abrasion.
- When to use it: Essential for cushion covers, upholstery, rucksacks, and heavy tote bags. It can also be used as topstitch thread if the specific topstitch color you need isn’t available.
- Tips: Use a thicker needle size (universal 90-110). Longer stitch lengths often benefit heavier-weight projects. This thread is usually too thick for the bobbin; use a matching general-purpose thread instead. You may need to reduce your machine’s tension.
- Topstitch Thread
- What is it? As the name suggests, this thread is specifically for decorative, yet functional, topstitching on items like jeans, denim jackets, and canvas bags.
- When to use it: Ideal for topstitching on jeans, jackets, heavier garments, bags, cushions, and upholstery.
- Tips: Increase your stitch length slightly. Reduce your machine’s tension. Do not use topstitch thread in your bobbin; instead, use a matching general-purpose thread. A size 90-110 universal, topstitching, or denim needle is appropriate. Some machines may struggle with zig-zag stitching with thicker threads; if so, switch to general-purpose thread for bar tacks.
- Jeans / Denim Thread
- What is it? A specialty thread purpose-made for denim projects, featuring a polyester core for strength wrapped in a cotton sheath dyed in tonal blue shades to blend with denim.
- When to use it: Your best friend for sewing with denim and mending holes in denim.
- Tips: The cotton sheath means more lint, so clean your machine after use. A universal 90-100 needle will work well with denim.
- Upholstery Thread
- What is it? A heavy-duty specialty thread, typically nylon or polyester, engineered to withstand significant stress and abrasion. Outdoor versions are also available with weather and UV resistance.
- When to use it: Perfect for seat cushions, couch covers, BBQ covers, outdoor projects, and floor poufs. It can also serve as topstitching thread for these projects.
- Tips: Research carefully as some upholstery threads are for industrial machines only. Nylon options will be shiny; a thread net can prevent premature unspooling. Choose a thicker needle; for dense or coated fabrics, consider a leather needle with its knife-like tip.
- Tacking / Basting Thread
- What is it? A fine, lightweight cotton thread designed for temporary use and easy removal.
- When to use it: Essential for hand basting fabrics to mark darts or notches, padstitching in tailored garments, and temporary garment construction to test fit. A great alternative to pins for pocket placement.
- Tips: This thread is not for permanent construction; it’s designed to break easily. You may need to reduce your machine’s tension if machine basting.
- Extra Fine Thread
- What is it? A strong, yet incredibly thin and smooth 100% polyester specialty thread.
- When to use it: Ideal for delicate, lightweight fabrics like chiffon or gauze. Perfect for buttonholes, seam finishes, and decoration on lightweight fabrics, as well as topstitching lightweight blouses and shirts. Also great for piecing, appliqué, and quilting where a subtle stitch is desired.
- Tips: Use a needle appropriate for delicate fabrics, such as a universal or microtex 60-70; larger needles will leave noticeable holes. It can be used in both the needle and bobbin. You might need to adjust machine tension – either reduced to prevent breakage or increased due to the thread’s thinness. Test first!
- Bobbin Fill Thread
- What is it? Very similar to extra fine thread, designed to be strong and durable for winding bobbins, and thinner than general-purpose thread.
- When to use it: Primarily for machine embroidery or quilting, used only in the bobbin. Also suitable for sewing delicate, lightweight garments, in both the needle and bobbin. Can be used in the loopers of your overlocker for a finer, more delicate finish.
- Tips: Pre-wound bobbins are available for some machine brands. You might need to adjust bobbin tension, but only after adjusting needle thread tension.
- Serger / Overlocker Thread
- What is it? Comes on larger cones and is more cost-effective than general-purpose thread. Designed to be a bit fluffy for greater coverage on a serged edge.
- When to use it: Exclusively for use in the needles and loopers of your serger. Do not use for construction seams in a regular sewing machine as it’s weaker than general-purpose thread. Can be used as a last-minute alternative to basting thread.
- Tips: Overlockers typically require four threads, so invest in basic color sets (black, white, grey). Use your basic spools with a single matched color spool in your outermost needle if the thread shows through. For a fun touch, use two spools of rainbow multicolored thread in your loopers!
- Woolly Nylon Thread
- What is it? A multifilament thread where multiple thin threads are crimped to provide elasticity, softness, and excellent seam coverage.
- When to use it: Perfect for swimwear and baby clothes where stretch is needed. Ideal for flatlocking seams for activewear. Can be used as both needle and bobbin thread in a regular sewing machine for knits.
- Tips: Threading can be tricky; use a needle threader or stiffen the tip with nail polish. It has a lower melting point than polyester, so iron seams on a medium to low setting.
- Invisible / Clear Thread
- What is it? Available in monofilament (thin fishing line-like) or multifilament (more like traditional thread) varieties, both made from nylon.
- When to use it: For adding embellishments to tulle, quilting multicolored fabric where you don’t want the thread to show, and low-profile repairs.
- Tips: Invest in high-quality brands like Gutermann or Mettler to avoid breakage. Multifilament is slightly more visible but easier to work with. It has a low melting point, so use a medium to low iron setting. Monofilament can unspool, so a thread net is useful.
- Elastic Shirring Thread
- What is it? A unique thread with an elastic core, specifically designed for shirring projects.
- When to use it: Exclusively for shirring or smocking projects, or adding elastic to a cuff or waistband.
- Tips: Only use this thread in the bobbin! Wind the bobbin by hand to prevent excessive tension. After shirring, lightly steam your project to help the elastic shrink to its original length.
- Metallic Thread
- What is it? A diverse range of threads designed to add sparkle and embellishment to your projects.
- When to use it: Primarily for embellishment and embroidery, or adding a personalized touch to garments. Not suitable for construction seams.
- Tips: If silky, use a thread net. Do not use in the bobbin. For thicker or rougher metallic threads, use a larger needle (90-110) and reduce needle tension to ensure smooth flow.
Your Thread Journey Starts at GFT Cebu
Understanding which thread to use can truly elevate your sewing experience, turning every stitch into a step towards perfection. It’s about understanding the synergy between your fabric and your stitch, ensuring durability, aesthetics, and a truly enjoyable creative process.
At GFT Cebu, we pride ourselves on being a reliable source for a comprehensive range of threads, catering to every fabric and every project imaginable. Ready to transform your sewing?
Come visit us at GFT Cebu, explore our extensive range of threads, and discover the perfect match for your next textile masterpiece. Our knowledgeable staff is always ready to assist you in finding exactly what you need to bring your sewing dreams to life.